by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Aug 22, 2016 | Bird photography, Brazil, International photo tours, Nature Photography, Photo Tour, Travel, Wildlife Photography
Brazilian Pantanal photo tour–sights, photo tips, equipment, challenges.
I have been to the Brazilian Pantanal twice in the past, once on a scouting trip and most recently conducting a photo tour. In both cases, I worked with an excellent naturalist/guide/photographer who I have known for more that twenty years, Alejandro Ronchetti of KÚntur Expeditions based in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Hyacinth Macaw
On this past trip, we flew from Dulles Airport non-stop to São Paulo and then on to the city of Cuiabá where the tour started. After a good night’s rest, we left the city in a van and headed southward, stopping briefly in Poconé for supplies before entering the Transpantaneira Highway. During the tour, we stayed overnight on two eco-friendly ranches and at the hotel Pantanal Norte at Porto Jofre. Along the Transpantaneira Highway, it was relatively easy to spot birds and other wildlife. We stopped frequently to take photos. The number of birds seen on the trip was unbelievable with remarkable numbers of snail kites and hawks in addition to many colorful birds. At one of the larger bridges, we had the opportunity to photograph a large assortment of birds–limpkins, spoonbills, herons, kingfishers, anhinga, and other birds feeding in the marsh below.
Our first stay was at the Pouso Alegre Ranch. Although the rooms were modest, the food was good, and wildlife abundant. At dawn, just outside our room were agoutis (small rodents), Southern Lapwings, rheas, toucans, and several curassows. Close to the lodge was a marsh and lagoon that straddled the road and was populated with a large number of herons, kites, kingfishers, and hawks. During the day, caiman congregated at the end of the lagoon and sun themselves on the road. One of the most unusual birds was the capped heron with a striking blue bill that was feeding along the bank in the vicinity of a a number of caiman. As we explored the ranch roads, we had the opportunity to photograph coatimundi, brocket deer, ibis, and jabiru storks. The tapir we were hoping to see eluded us, leaving only it tracks behind in the mud.
Sayaca Tanager
After 3 days on the ranch, our next stop was the riverside hotel at Porto Jofre where we had the best chance to see jaguar. The accommodations were modern and very nice with an assortment of birds just outside our rooms– buff-necked ibis, hyacinth macaws, caracaras, chaco chachalacas, toucans, just to name a few. Behind the rooms was a boardwalk leading past giant lilies and other marsh species. Twice a day for 3 days we navigated the Cuiabá River and its tributaries at Parque Estadual Encontro das Aguas (Meeting of the Waters) State Park in search of jaguar and other wildlife species. Here jaguars are protected and openly hunt spectacled caimans, capybaras, tapirs, and other animals along the riverbanks. This magnificent cat is the largest in South America and is a proficient swimmer and with its strong jaws can easily crush the skulls of its prey. Although never witnessing a kill as we had hoped, we had several opportunities to photograph jaguar relaxing and walking along the riverbank. In each case, the light was low and the animal was often in heavy shade requiring ISO settings of 1250 and above. Our boat was stable and large enough for the four of us plus Alex and our photo gear. With care, I was even able to use my 600 mm, F4 lens mounted on a tripod to photograph jaguar and small birds. Our boat driver was proficient positioning us for the best photos and was in radio communication with other guides, so when a jaguar was spotted, we knew the location. In most cases, when a jaguar was located, 4 or 5 boats would eventually arrive at the location and anchor at a distance off shore to observe the cat that seemed to be oblivious to their presence. Later in the season, when there are more tourists, I suspect the number of boats would be greater. Besides jaguar, we photographed other wildlife including giant otters, capybaras, caiman, yellow-billed terns, a pied lapwing, kingfishers, and more.
Jaguar
Our last stop in the Pantanal was two days at Fazenda Santa Tereza ranch. Here we encountered a crab eating fox, hummingbirds, yellow-chevroned parakeets, a rufous-tailed jacamar, and other birds at feeder and near the lodge. From outside our rooms and from a scaffold near the nest, we could watch a pair of jabiru interacting and fortifying their nest. We were taken to see a great potoo at its daytime roost. It was so well camouflaged as part to the tree, that it would have been nearly impossible to see without a guide. Each day we explored the river adjacent to the inn by boat and photographed black-collared and black hawk, ringed kingfisher, and herons, snatching up fish tossed in the water.. During our exploration of the river, we photographed anhinga, a sun bittern, jabiru storks, river otters and a spectacular sunset. The Pantanal was well worth visiting and I would love to return.
Added to the Pantanal trip, we had an excursion to Chapada dos Guimarães, a national park with picturesque tablelands located 65 km northwards from Cuiabá. The highlight of the visit was the Veu da Noiva Waterfall from where we could admire the tablelands and one of the highest waterfalls of the park. Of particular interest was the opportunity to photograph red-and-green macaws flying in front of the falls and canyon walls. The Pousada do Parque Lodge where we stayed was lovely with many birds visiting the grounds early and late in the day. It was the perfect place to relax at the end of the tour. However for serious landscape photography, the park was disappointing since visitors only have access between 9 AM and 5 PM, not the best time for extraordinary light and dramatic images.
On a previous trip, we flew from Cuiabá to Campo Grande and drove to the town of Bonita with access to the Southern Pantanal. The highlight of our visit was the huge sink-hole, Buraco das Araras, where red and green macaws nest. Loved it.
Sun Bittern
Lighting challenges:
The variety of birds seen was mind-boggling but lighting was not always optimal. Although on the road early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the light was warm and soft, we were also in the field when the sun was higher in the sky and the light was harsh, washing out colors, obscuring details with dark shadows, and contributing to distracting backgrounds. Since I wanted to capture the range of animals for a program on the Pantanal, I took chances on shots that required more editing than I prefer to minimize problems. The best photo opportunities during non—prime hours were when a light layer of clouds softened the light or when the subject was in open shade. However in the later case, images tend to appear flat and colors slightly muted. To compound the periodic lighting issues when shooting in jungle or forests, there were vines, branches, light colored grasses and other vegetation either in front of subjects or contributing to an undesirable background that could not be avoided. But remember, this is the real world and not a photo studio.
Equipment:
It is always a challenge to transport camera equipment on the plane. I use a Gura Gear light-weight photo backpack but it appears large on my small frame. I am always concerned bout having the bag taken away from me and placed with checked luggage. Airline personnel have challenged me on several occasions, but they reluctantly allowed me to keep the bag once I explained the delicate nature and cost of the contents.
On this trip, I took my Nikon 600 mm, VR, F4 lens. It is quite heavy and large. When shooting from a car window on a large beanbag or on a tripod, the lens is wonderful for photographing small subjects and I will continue to use it for these applications. But from the confines of the van with other photographers, the lens was difficult to maneuver and nearly impossible to hand-hold. When exiting the van and mounting the lens on a tripod, I lost precious time positioning the lens and missed a shots I may have gotten with a smaller, lighter rig . Today, its large front element and high light gathering capacity is less critical than in the past now that high end cameras such as Nikon’s D5 perform fairly well at high ISOs, producing less noise (similar in appearance to film grain) as in the past. Note: Problems with noise is magnified when underexposing an image. After observing the ease of handling and quality of several lighter and less expensive zoom telephoto lenses carried by fellow travelers, I just purchased Nikon’s 200-500 mm zoom lens for increased flexibility. Although lighter that the 600 mm, this lens is still not a feather-weight. We will see how well it performs on my next photo excursion.
Red and Green Macaws
Besides the afore mentioned lens, I took with me a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod with Arca Swiss head, 35 to 70 mm zoom lens, an 80 to 400 mm zoom lens, 62 and 77 mm polarizers, Nikon D5 and D4s cameras, spare batteries, charger, empty beanbag, 32 and 64 G fast compact flash cards, Apple MacBook Air computer and two Seagate Backup Plus 2 T portable drives for image storage. For the Pantantal, insect repellant and sunscreen are a must. Dehydration is always a consideration when spending hours in the sun on an open boat so carry an adequate supply of water. I have a water bottle with a mister attachment. Not only can I drink water from the bottle but I can also spray myself with water to cool down quickly.
Timing of my trip:
On both trips to the Pantanal, I arrived in late June and stayed until mid-July. The water level is still dropping after the wet months. Less bank is exposed compared to later in the season, making animals a little more difficult to see and photograph. Accommodations in the Pantanal are limited, so it is imperative to make reservations early. Later in the tourist season, available rooms in the best locations are more difficult to find.
Flight info:
I booked my flights to São Paulo and Cuiabá on-line directly with United Airline (the flight to Cuiabá on GOL, a partner airline). I was issued both boarding passes at the United Airline desk and our bags were checked in all the way to Cuiabá. Therefore when I retrieved my checked bags after my US flight and passed through customs, I could immediately re-check them for the remaining flight.
Coming home there was 10 hour lay-over in São Paulo Airport, so checking the bags right after the arrival of the domestic flight was not possible. Therefore we rented small rooms on a hourly basis at hotel in the airport called FastSleep. This allowed us to survive the layover comfortably, being able to nap, catch-up on e-mail, exercise by walking throughout the terminals, and pick up last minute gifts. After observing the experience of one of my fellow travelers, next time I will reserve a room using Booking.com as opposed to dealing with the hotel directly.
Great egret
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Aug 22, 2016 | Brazil, International photo tours, Nature Photography, Pantanal, Photo Tours, Wildlife, Wildlife Photography
Hyacinth Macaw
The Pantanal of Brazil is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Why is it unique?
The majority of the Pantanal is located in Brazil with smaller portions in Bolivia and Paraguay. It covers 81,000 square miles, with the Bazilian portion in the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul
The Pantanal is huge gently sloping basin and the largest seasonally flooded tropical wetland. It is10 times the size of the Everglades and is a mosaic of habitats created by water with distinctive wet and dry seasons. 80% is submerged during the rainy season, the months November through March. The nutrient rich floodwaters deposit sediments that enrich the soil and create a fertile environment capable of supporting highly diverse collection of plant and animal species. It’s home to some of the rarest animals on earth–the jaguar, marsh deer, giant river otter, hyacinth macaw, crowned solitary eagle, maned wolf, giant anteater, South American tapir, yellow anaconda, and yacare caiman. They share the habitat with howler monkeys, capybara, toucans, parrots, iguanas, armadillo, tegu lizards and other wildlife. It is estimated that there are more than 3500 species of plants, thousands of invertebrates, and hundreds of bird, mammal and reptile species.
In addition to benefiting wildlife, the Pantanal is important for flood abatement, water purification, recharging ground water, climate stabilization, and serving as a nursery for aquatic life.
Wet Season: The rainfall is approximately 1,000–1,400 mm (39–55 in) per year. But the majority of the water comes from runoff from the surrounding upland areas including the Paraguay River and its tributaries flowing from the surrounding plateau. As water levels rise, these rivers inundate the Pantanal’s grasslands and gallery forest, creating a vast temporary wetland bounded by dry and humid forests, grasslands, & savannas. During the rainy season water level rises 2 to 5 meters.
Dry Season: May to late November is considered the dry season in Pantanal, and the water level drops dramatically. In November, very little of water persists except in some ponds and permanent rivers and streams. Tourists visit primarily June through Oct. The average temperature in the Pantanal is 25 °C (77 °F), but temperatures can fluctuate from 0 to 40 °C (32 to 104 °F).
Black Hawk
Access:
The main gateways into the Pantanal are the cities of Cuiabá (capital of the state of Mato Grosso) and Campo Grande (Capital of the state of Mato Grosso do Sul).
The Transpantaneira Highway is an elevated 160 km long dirt road. With dozens of bridges, many of them wooden, it crosses the Pantanal over savannahs, lakes, seasonal streams, rivers, lagoons, marshes and shrub wetlands until finally reaching the Cuiabá River where it ends at Porto Jofre. Along the way, there are many opportunities for roadside photography of wildlife.
Capybara
Economy: The economy of the area is based on cattle ranching, agriculture (rice, soy beans, corn, sugar cane, etc.), agroindustries, mining (gold, diamonds, iron, manganese), professional fishing, sportfishing and eco-tourism.
Concerns: Approximately 99 % of the Pantanal is privately owned with thousands of ranches (fazendas) and 8 million cattle. Current threats to the ecosystem include hunting, poaching (exotic species trade), pesticides from agricultural runoff, pollution from sewage and mining, and infrastructure development effecting hydrology. But compared to the Everglades, it is relatively untouched despite the lack government protection.
Giant River Otter eating fish.
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Feb 20, 2015 | Assateague, Bird behavior, Brazil, Chicoteague, Nature Photography, Photo Technique, Photo Tours, Photo Workshops, Wildlife, Wildlife Photography
Animals are more active early I the morning and late in the day as opposed to mid-day when the light is harsh and temperatures are higher. Therefore you have the best chance to capture images that are dynamic at these times. Cameras that perform well (little noise) at higher ISOs are beneficial when the light is low and yet fast shutter speeds are still required.
Spectacled caiman on a ranch in Ibera Argentina. Late afternoon and warm color.
On a pond in the Falklands. Skipped dinner to photograph this and other birds on the pond.
Careful observation of your subject over time is the key to capturing action and behavior. Alterations in body posture, shifting weight, and adjustment in muscle tension (whether noted cognitively or sensed subliminally) can suggest some change in behavior. For instance, shifting of body weight of a resting animal may indicate it is ready to stand or possibly stretch.
Jack Rabbit stretching.
Birds stretching or flapping wings can often precede flight. Sandhill cranes lean forward before flying. Herons often bend knees and stretch out neck before flying. Seabirds landing on rocky cliffs often employ their wings to provide stability. Birds bathing typically splash while cleaning feathers and then shake off the excess water.
Catching its balance after landing on rock ledge.
Canvas back bathing.
Cinnamon teal bathing.
Black-necked swan taking off from pond. Neck outstretched preceded flight.
Humpback whale preparing to dive. Can predict the point at which the fluke will appear dripping water by observing the curvature of the tail at its base.
Leaning forward before flight. Sandhill cranes, Bosque del Apache.
Bends knees and leans forward before flight.
Chattering and agitated movements within a flock of birds frequently precedes the arrival of more members of their flock, the departure of birds, or the approach of a threatening predator.
Puffin landing. Birds on the ground became animated as the other approach.
Greese were vocal and agitated before leaving the pond.
Photography during breeding season is often rewarding since activities increase – turkeys strut, elk lock antlers, deer mark territory, etc. Nurturing behavior between adult and young often results in touching photos.
Black Browed Albatross preening each other. Pair bonding during breeding season.
Otter protecting young. Difficult to get this photo since rocks were slippery.
King penguin caring for new born.
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Jan 24, 2015 | Assateague, Brazil, Chicoteague, Digital Photography, Nature Photography, Pantanal, Photo Technique, Photo Tours, Photo Workshops, Wildlife, Wildlife Photography
CAMERA CLUBS & OTHER SOURCES OF INFO
Your fellow camera club members can be helpful pointing out local hotspots for wildlife photography. At one such club meeting in Manassas where I was delivering a lecture, I learned that elk herds exist in Pennsylvania, near Benesette http://elkcountryvisitorcenter.com/drupal/ . They are typically found where there is fresh browse. In the fall, the males bugled just like courtship in Yellowstone. Magazines such as Outdoor Photographer www.outdoorphotographer.com can be a great resource describing favorite locations for photography. Robert Hitchman has a newsletter “Photograph America” with detailed info on trails and photo perspectives for all types of photography. It’s a great resource if planning a trip. www.photographamerica.com Well worth the price.
WATER
Animals require 3 key things for survival, food, water and shelter. Therefore areas that provide these elements attract wildlife add offer photo opportunities. They are also good locations to place photo blinds (later discussion). For example, a pond or spring in an arid area can draw wildlife from great distances. On a ranch in south Texas I placed blinds (hides) near ponds that contained water during the hotter months of the year. At the end of the summer at Chincoteague NWR, water evaporates from the impoundments and waterways. Fish become trapped in the shallows where water remains and attract large numbers of hungry herons, raccoons, and other wildlife. Similarly, during the dry season in the wetlands of Brazil(the Pantanal) http://www.pantanal.org/Mainpant.htm, completion for food becomes fierce and animals become more visible as the water disappears.
Coatimundi drinking at pond in Mexico.
Roadrunner drinking at small pool of water during drought in South Texas.
Deer drinking in one of the few ponds with water on a ranch in south Texas.
Bufflehead in channel at Chincoteague, VA
FOOD
A reliable source of food will attract wildlife. Ripening seeds, acorns, crab apples, and fruit will attract monkeys, bears, and squirrels, as well as songbirds and other bird life. The upwelling of nutrients and food caused by strong currents such as those off the southern tip of South America attract marine life and provide food for whales, seals, sea lions, and penguins as seen in the Falkland Islands. The protected waters around Peninsula Valdes in Argentina offer shelter to elephant seals, southern sea lions, penguins, and calving southern right whales and attract photographers from around the world. But you don’t have to go to exotic places to attract and photograph wildlife. In your own backyard you can put out feeders with seed or suet, add a source of water and include an interesting perch nearby so you can capture images in what appears to be a natural setting.
Squirrel storing nut for the winter.
Chickadee feeding on berries.
Giant River Otter eating fish in the Pantanal.
Great Blue Heron with fish.
Rose-breasted Grosbeak at bird feeder.
FAVORITE PERCHES
Birds such as kingfishers, cormorants, and kiskadees often dive for fish from the same perch and return there to consume their fish offering excellent opportunities for photographs. Turkeys, vultures, snail kites, and other birds often roost in the same location each night. These are perfect places to stake out with your camera.
Kiskadee fishing from favorite branch.
Thick-billed tern perched on pole preening and fishing.
Belted Kingfisher fishing from its favorite perch.
DUSTING AREA & MINERAL LICKS
Mineral licks are also great places to photograph wildlife. At Custer State Park, SD http://gfp.sd.gov/state-parks/directory/custer/ buffalo, mule deer, and pronghorn frequent these bare patches of ground rich in minerals and nutrients. These spots are easy to recognize by the reddish color of the dirt. Other locations where animals return repeatedly are dusting areas, sections of bare ground and loose dirt where “wild burros”, buffalo, guanaco, horses, road runners and other animals kick up and roll in the dust to rid themselves of pests.
Burro dusting in Custer State Park, SD
Elephant seal throwing sand perhaps to cool off.
ICE, ROCKS & ISLANDS
If on a boat in Alaska, ice flows area good areas to look for seals. Round Island is prefect if interested in photographing walrus.
Walrus warming in the sun on Round Island.
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Jan 17, 2015 | Digital Photography, Nature Photography, Photo Technique, Photo Tours, Photo Workshops, Travel, Wildlife, Wildlife Photography
LOCATIONS (PART 4)
Several of the best locations to photograph wildlife are ones where the animals are acclimated to the presence of people or vehicles. These include county, state, and national parks, wildlife refuges & sanctuaries, and eco-friendly ranches (South Texas & South America). In terms of wildlife refuges, I tend to favor those with roads that run along the dikes that separate the impoundments. Parallel to the roads are ditches that typically hold water even when the other ponds are dry and therefore attract wading birds and other wildlife. If these channels are close to the road and vegetation does not block the view, photos of the animals can be taken easily from the car. The vehicle serves as a mobile blind that allows you to move along with the subject and adjust your angle of view and distance. To photograph out the car window, I place the telephoto lens on one or two large home-made bean bags filled with rice which I place on the window sill. You can also purchase bags from Lens Coat http://www.lenscoat.com , Birds as Art https://store.birdsasart.com or other suppliers. Two of my favorite wildlife refuges that are perfect for this style of shooting are Chincoteague NWR and Bosque del Apache NWR. http://www.fws.gov/refuge/chincoteague/ & http://www.fws.gov/refuge/bosque_del_apache/
PHOTOGRAPHY FROM A VEHICLE
Snow goose, shot from the car on the Loop Rd. @ Chincoteague. NWR, VA
Mallard family in a row. Shot from the car in Chincoteague NWR, VA.
Northern Harrier consuming a duck. Shot from rental car in Bosque del Apache, NM.
PRIVATE RANCHES
Eco-friendly ranches that protect native species and habitat such as those in South Texas, Argentina and Brazil often cater to photographers. These offer excellent opportunities to photograph from vehicles, blinds, or even on foot. (Discussion of blinds in later blog)
Rosette Spoonbill feeding in pond on private ranch in Texas. Photographed from a blind.
Caiman resting on bank at private ranch in Argentina.
Photographed late in the afternoon on Sea Lion Island in the Falkland Islands
HIKING
Photographing while randomly hiking in your local woods often fails to provide satisfactory result. The animals flee before you are within shooting distance. However if the habitat attracts wildlife and the animals are protected, they sometimes become acclimated to seeing people on foot . Corkscrew Swamp http://corkscrew.audubon.org and Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve in South Florida with their boardwalks are often worth a visit as well as Loxahatchee NWR. Hiking in other locations such as Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP, and the Badlands of South Dakota can also be productive particularly if your subject is initially spotted from the road. (See stalking techniques in later blogs).
Great Blue Heron shot while I was walking along a ditch filled with water in Chincoteague NWR, VA
Raccoon photographed while walking along one of the ditches at Chincoteague, VA.
Capuchin Money. Photographed while hiking along trails on hotel property near Bonito Brazil. Semi tame since food is readily available there.
DANGER
When hiking in remote areas, care must be taken not to surprise a grazing buffalo, bear, moose and other large mammals. Even though they may be in national parks or reserves they are still wild and potentially dangerous particularly if their young are present or if it is mating season. When photographing such animals, use long lenses to keep a safe distance from them and to isolate the subject. Approach slowing and always leave them a means of escape. (See safety discussion in a later blog)
White-tailed Deer buck photographed at Canaan Valley, WV many years ago while meandering throughout the meadows in search of deer to photograph.
I was photographing a scene away from the car when I spotted this sow and cubs. I stopped and grabbed a quick shot. She bluffed charged me and I carefully retreated to my car a little distance away. The rest of my shooting was done with my 600 mm from inside the car. A black bear with cubs can be very dangerous.
While hiking I spotted two rams. I took my initial photos from a distance. When they resumed their original behavior eating vegetation and slowly moving through the field, I moved a bit closer to them making sure not to pressure the animals or block its means of escape. I spent nearly an hour following and photographing their activities. At times they eveny closed the distance between u without alarm.
More blogs coming covering other topics relative to wildlife photgraphy. Importance of food, water, and shelter plus timing next.
