by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Aug 22, 2016 | Bird photography, Brazil, International photo tours, Nature Photography, Photo Tour, Travel, Wildlife Photography
Brazilian Pantanal photo tour–sights, photo tips, equipment, challenges.
I have been to the Brazilian Pantanal twice in the past, once on a scouting trip and most recently conducting a photo tour. In both cases, I worked with an excellent naturalist/guide/photographer who I have known for more that twenty years, Alejandro Ronchetti of KÚntur Expeditions based in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Hyacinth Macaw
On this past trip, we flew from Dulles Airport non-stop to São Paulo and then on to the city of Cuiabá where the tour started. After a good night’s rest, we left the city in a van and headed southward, stopping briefly in Poconé for supplies before entering the Transpantaneira Highway. During the tour, we stayed overnight on two eco-friendly ranches and at the hotel Pantanal Norte at Porto Jofre. Along the Transpantaneira Highway, it was relatively easy to spot birds and other wildlife. We stopped frequently to take photos. The number of birds seen on the trip was unbelievable with remarkable numbers of snail kites and hawks in addition to many colorful birds. At one of the larger bridges, we had the opportunity to photograph a large assortment of birds–limpkins, spoonbills, herons, kingfishers, anhinga, and other birds feeding in the marsh below.
Our first stay was at the Pouso Alegre Ranch. Although the rooms were modest, the food was good, and wildlife abundant. At dawn, just outside our room were agoutis (small rodents), Southern Lapwings, rheas, toucans, and several curassows. Close to the lodge was a marsh and lagoon that straddled the road and was populated with a large number of herons, kites, kingfishers, and hawks. During the day, caiman congregated at the end of the lagoon and sun themselves on the road. One of the most unusual birds was the capped heron with a striking blue bill that was feeding along the bank in the vicinity of a a number of caiman. As we explored the ranch roads, we had the opportunity to photograph coatimundi, brocket deer, ibis, and jabiru storks. The tapir we were hoping to see eluded us, leaving only it tracks behind in the mud.
Sayaca Tanager
After 3 days on the ranch, our next stop was the riverside hotel at Porto Jofre where we had the best chance to see jaguar. The accommodations were modern and very nice with an assortment of birds just outside our rooms– buff-necked ibis, hyacinth macaws, caracaras, chaco chachalacas, toucans, just to name a few. Behind the rooms was a boardwalk leading past giant lilies and other marsh species. Twice a day for 3 days we navigated the Cuiabá River and its tributaries at Parque Estadual Encontro das Aguas (Meeting of the Waters) State Park in search of jaguar and other wildlife species. Here jaguars are protected and openly hunt spectacled caimans, capybaras, tapirs, and other animals along the riverbanks. This magnificent cat is the largest in South America and is a proficient swimmer and with its strong jaws can easily crush the skulls of its prey. Although never witnessing a kill as we had hoped, we had several opportunities to photograph jaguar relaxing and walking along the riverbank. In each case, the light was low and the animal was often in heavy shade requiring ISO settings of 1250 and above. Our boat was stable and large enough for the four of us plus Alex and our photo gear. With care, I was even able to use my 600 mm, F4 lens mounted on a tripod to photograph jaguar and small birds. Our boat driver was proficient positioning us for the best photos and was in radio communication with other guides, so when a jaguar was spotted, we knew the location. In most cases, when a jaguar was located, 4 or 5 boats would eventually arrive at the location and anchor at a distance off shore to observe the cat that seemed to be oblivious to their presence. Later in the season, when there are more tourists, I suspect the number of boats would be greater. Besides jaguar, we photographed other wildlife including giant otters, capybaras, caiman, yellow-billed terns, a pied lapwing, kingfishers, and more.
Jaguar
Our last stop in the Pantanal was two days at Fazenda Santa Tereza ranch. Here we encountered a crab eating fox, hummingbirds, yellow-chevroned parakeets, a rufous-tailed jacamar, and other birds at feeder and near the lodge. From outside our rooms and from a scaffold near the nest, we could watch a pair of jabiru interacting and fortifying their nest. We were taken to see a great potoo at its daytime roost. It was so well camouflaged as part to the tree, that it would have been nearly impossible to see without a guide. Each day we explored the river adjacent to the inn by boat and photographed black-collared and black hawk, ringed kingfisher, and herons, snatching up fish tossed in the water.. During our exploration of the river, we photographed anhinga, a sun bittern, jabiru storks, river otters and a spectacular sunset. The Pantanal was well worth visiting and I would love to return.
Added to the Pantanal trip, we had an excursion to Chapada dos Guimarães, a national park with picturesque tablelands located 65 km northwards from Cuiabá. The highlight of the visit was the Veu da Noiva Waterfall from where we could admire the tablelands and one of the highest waterfalls of the park. Of particular interest was the opportunity to photograph red-and-green macaws flying in front of the falls and canyon walls. The Pousada do Parque Lodge where we stayed was lovely with many birds visiting the grounds early and late in the day. It was the perfect place to relax at the end of the tour. However for serious landscape photography, the park was disappointing since visitors only have access between 9 AM and 5 PM, not the best time for extraordinary light and dramatic images.
On a previous trip, we flew from Cuiabá to Campo Grande and drove to the town of Bonita with access to the Southern Pantanal. The highlight of our visit was the huge sink-hole, Buraco das Araras, where red and green macaws nest. Loved it.
Sun Bittern
Lighting challenges:
The variety of birds seen was mind-boggling but lighting was not always optimal. Although on the road early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the light was warm and soft, we were also in the field when the sun was higher in the sky and the light was harsh, washing out colors, obscuring details with dark shadows, and contributing to distracting backgrounds. Since I wanted to capture the range of animals for a program on the Pantanal, I took chances on shots that required more editing than I prefer to minimize problems. The best photo opportunities during non—prime hours were when a light layer of clouds softened the light or when the subject was in open shade. However in the later case, images tend to appear flat and colors slightly muted. To compound the periodic lighting issues when shooting in jungle or forests, there were vines, branches, light colored grasses and other vegetation either in front of subjects or contributing to an undesirable background that could not be avoided. But remember, this is the real world and not a photo studio.
Equipment:
It is always a challenge to transport camera equipment on the plane. I use a Gura Gear light-weight photo backpack but it appears large on my small frame. I am always concerned bout having the bag taken away from me and placed with checked luggage. Airline personnel have challenged me on several occasions, but they reluctantly allowed me to keep the bag once I explained the delicate nature and cost of the contents.
On this trip, I took my Nikon 600 mm, VR, F4 lens. It is quite heavy and large. When shooting from a car window on a large beanbag or on a tripod, the lens is wonderful for photographing small subjects and I will continue to use it for these applications. But from the confines of the van with other photographers, the lens was difficult to maneuver and nearly impossible to hand-hold. When exiting the van and mounting the lens on a tripod, I lost precious time positioning the lens and missed a shots I may have gotten with a smaller, lighter rig . Today, its large front element and high light gathering capacity is less critical than in the past now that high end cameras such as Nikon’s D5 perform fairly well at high ISOs, producing less noise (similar in appearance to film grain) as in the past. Note: Problems with noise is magnified when underexposing an image. After observing the ease of handling and quality of several lighter and less expensive zoom telephoto lenses carried by fellow travelers, I just purchased Nikon’s 200-500 mm zoom lens for increased flexibility. Although lighter that the 600 mm, this lens is still not a feather-weight. We will see how well it performs on my next photo excursion.
Red and Green Macaws
Besides the afore mentioned lens, I took with me a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod with Arca Swiss head, 35 to 70 mm zoom lens, an 80 to 400 mm zoom lens, 62 and 77 mm polarizers, Nikon D5 and D4s cameras, spare batteries, charger, empty beanbag, 32 and 64 G fast compact flash cards, Apple MacBook Air computer and two Seagate Backup Plus 2 T portable drives for image storage. For the Pantantal, insect repellant and sunscreen are a must. Dehydration is always a consideration when spending hours in the sun on an open boat so carry an adequate supply of water. I have a water bottle with a mister attachment. Not only can I drink water from the bottle but I can also spray myself with water to cool down quickly.
Timing of my trip:
On both trips to the Pantanal, I arrived in late June and stayed until mid-July. The water level is still dropping after the wet months. Less bank is exposed compared to later in the season, making animals a little more difficult to see and photograph. Accommodations in the Pantanal are limited, so it is imperative to make reservations early. Later in the tourist season, available rooms in the best locations are more difficult to find.
Flight info:
I booked my flights to São Paulo and Cuiabá on-line directly with United Airline (the flight to Cuiabá on GOL, a partner airline). I was issued both boarding passes at the United Airline desk and our bags were checked in all the way to Cuiabá. Therefore when I retrieved my checked bags after my US flight and passed through customs, I could immediately re-check them for the remaining flight.
Coming home there was 10 hour lay-over in São Paulo Airport, so checking the bags right after the arrival of the domestic flight was not possible. Therefore we rented small rooms on a hourly basis at hotel in the airport called FastSleep. This allowed us to survive the layover comfortably, being able to nap, catch-up on e-mail, exercise by walking throughout the terminals, and pick up last minute gifts. After observing the experience of one of my fellow travelers, next time I will reserve a room using Booking.com as opposed to dealing with the hotel directly.
Great egret
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Aug 22, 2016 | Brazil, International photo tours, Nature Photography, Pantanal, Photo Tours, Wildlife, Wildlife Photography
Hyacinth Macaw
The Pantanal of Brazil is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Why is it unique?
The majority of the Pantanal is located in Brazil with smaller portions in Bolivia and Paraguay. It covers 81,000 square miles, with the Bazilian portion in the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul
The Pantanal is huge gently sloping basin and the largest seasonally flooded tropical wetland. It is10 times the size of the Everglades and is a mosaic of habitats created by water with distinctive wet and dry seasons. 80% is submerged during the rainy season, the months November through March. The nutrient rich floodwaters deposit sediments that enrich the soil and create a fertile environment capable of supporting highly diverse collection of plant and animal species. It’s home to some of the rarest animals on earth–the jaguar, marsh deer, giant river otter, hyacinth macaw, crowned solitary eagle, maned wolf, giant anteater, South American tapir, yellow anaconda, and yacare caiman. They share the habitat with howler monkeys, capybara, toucans, parrots, iguanas, armadillo, tegu lizards and other wildlife. It is estimated that there are more than 3500 species of plants, thousands of invertebrates, and hundreds of bird, mammal and reptile species.
In addition to benefiting wildlife, the Pantanal is important for flood abatement, water purification, recharging ground water, climate stabilization, and serving as a nursery for aquatic life.
Wet Season: The rainfall is approximately 1,000–1,400 mm (39–55 in) per year. But the majority of the water comes from runoff from the surrounding upland areas including the Paraguay River and its tributaries flowing from the surrounding plateau. As water levels rise, these rivers inundate the Pantanal’s grasslands and gallery forest, creating a vast temporary wetland bounded by dry and humid forests, grasslands, & savannas. During the rainy season water level rises 2 to 5 meters.
Dry Season: May to late November is considered the dry season in Pantanal, and the water level drops dramatically. In November, very little of water persists except in some ponds and permanent rivers and streams. Tourists visit primarily June through Oct. The average temperature in the Pantanal is 25 °C (77 °F), but temperatures can fluctuate from 0 to 40 °C (32 to 104 °F).
Black Hawk
Access:
The main gateways into the Pantanal are the cities of Cuiabá (capital of the state of Mato Grosso) and Campo Grande (Capital of the state of Mato Grosso do Sul).
The Transpantaneira Highway is an elevated 160 km long dirt road. With dozens of bridges, many of them wooden, it crosses the Pantanal over savannahs, lakes, seasonal streams, rivers, lagoons, marshes and shrub wetlands until finally reaching the Cuiabá River where it ends at Porto Jofre. Along the way, there are many opportunities for roadside photography of wildlife.
Capybara
Economy: The economy of the area is based on cattle ranching, agriculture (rice, soy beans, corn, sugar cane, etc.), agroindustries, mining (gold, diamonds, iron, manganese), professional fishing, sportfishing and eco-tourism.
Concerns: Approximately 99 % of the Pantanal is privately owned with thousands of ranches (fazendas) and 8 million cattle. Current threats to the ecosystem include hunting, poaching (exotic species trade), pesticides from agricultural runoff, pollution from sewage and mining, and infrastructure development effecting hydrology. But compared to the Everglades, it is relatively untouched despite the lack government protection.
Giant River Otter eating fish.
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Oct 21, 2015 | Autumn photography, Fall photography, Nature Photography, Photo Tour, Photo Tours, West Virginia
Dolly Sods
West Virginia Fall PhotoTour (Trip Report)
Blackwater Falls State Park is situated in the West Virginia mountains near the town of Davis and is approximately a 5 hour drive from my home on the East side of Baltimore. Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge and Canaan Valley State Park are only a short distance from Blackwater. They all lie within Canaan Valley, a 13 mile long high valley, nestled among the higher ranges of the Allegheny Mountains. The average valley floor elevation is 3,200 feet (980 m) above sea level which accounts for its cooler temperatures and early arrival of fall. Within the valley are extensive wetlands and the headwaters of the Blackwater River which spills out of the valley as Blackwater Falls. Highly photogenic, its amber-colored water plunges down 62 feet before cascading through an eight-mile long gorge (Blackwater Canyon).
Blackwater Falls
This part of West Virginia is a favorite destination of mine during the first two weeks of October when the hillsides are ablaze with the colors of autumn. This year the colors were less then prime due to wet weather and warmer temperatures but still beautiful. Views from the overlooks at Blackwater Falls State Park such as Pendleton, Linde, and lodge provided ample photo opportunities. Canaan Valley State Park offered more opportunities to capture fall color as the sun back-lit the leaves of aspen, maple, oak, and fern. In ponds and along the Blackwater River, the colors from the surrounding vegetation reflected in their surface. For the first time in a long while, I took the Canaan Valley ski lift to a ridge opposite the park. (The lift does not operate all year so check the schedule if you are interested). Once I step off the lift, it was a bit of a hike to reach an open area with a clear view of the valley, but the trek is worth it. As I climbed towards rocks of Bald Knob, along side the trail I encountered a large group of vibrantly colored red-leaved blue berry bushes which begged to be photographed. From here, I continued to follow the trail upward until I finally reached the rocky overlook with a panoramic view of Canaan Valley. After sitting down for a few minutes and enjoying the view, I began to photograph the valley below using the large bolders as foreground. (You can either return to the parking area the way you came using the lift or follow a steep, leaf covered trail to the bottom. The later can be a bit challenging but I made it down despite being a little sore the next day).
View or Canaan Valley.
Way to Elkins, WV
While in the area, it is worth visiting Dolly Sods, a high rocky plateau. Its 10,215 acres, are part of the Monongahela National Forest and Allegheny mountain range. As a result of logging, fires, and harsh winters, the plant life is unique and more similar to that found much farther north with one-sided trees, sphagnum bogs, and low growing bushes. There are 3 main access roads to the road that runs the length of the ridge of Dolly Sods. All are gravel and can be a bit challenging for cars with low clearance. There are a number of overlooks of the Allegheny mountain range once you reach the top. My favorite area is the end near the end of the road in a section known as Bear Rocks. Here there are few trees, large lichen covered boulders, and fields of blueberry and cranberry bushes with leaves that turn red in the fall. Late in the afternoon, these leaves glow when backlit by the setting sun. (See under tips, notes for avoiding flare in your photo). This year the leaves were more brown than previously but there were still some areas where the color was nearly prime. It had rained the day before I arrived and puddles had formed on the trails. The water reflected the blue of the sky and the colors from the surrounding vegetation offering some unique opportunities for photography.
Dolly Sods
Dolly Sods
No mater when you visit, these West Virginia treasures offer the photographer plenty to photograph. There are more possibilities in Southern West Virginia, where I have done workshops in the past–the New River Gorge, Sandstone Falls, Grand View, Babcock Mill, Pipestem State Park, Hawks Nest, and other locations offer photographers great photo opportunities in the fall. Fall comes a bit later in these locations – late October. No matter where you go, think of photographing more that the grand vistas and consider simple things like bubbles in a stream, water droplets on the grass, a caterpillar, a backlit fern, or a deer drinking from a pool of water. The possibilities are endless for an autumn photo tour.
Elakala Falls near blackwater lodge
Robert Hitchman in his “Photograph America Newsletter” describes autumn photo opportunities in locations across the U.S. including Vermont, Connecticut, Michigan, New Hampshire, and more. wwww.photographamerica.com
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | Oct 5, 2015 | Canadian Rockies, Nature Photography, Photo Tour, Photo Tours, Sunrise, Wildlife Photography
Fog Lifting
Photo Tour of the Canadian Rockies – a brief trip report of our adventures
This is far from a complete review of the photo opportunities in the Canadian Rockies. Just some highlights from my recent trip this fall. Summer is the high tourist season and to my mind, not the best for photography and reasonable cost for lodging.
I visited the Canadian Rockies 13 – 26 Sep 2015. Early in the trip, I stayed in the town of Canmore which is bisected by the Trans-Canadian highway and located 50 miles west of the City of Calgary. It is within a 15 to 20 minute drive to Banff National Park and is located in the Bow Valley near the park’s Southeast boundary. It served as a good base of operation to explore Banff NP and the surrounding area. It was a peaceful town with reasonable hotel rates and not as crowed and filled with tourists as the town of Banff. A variety of good restaurants are found on Main St including an Argentine Grill. Impressive mountains are nearby for early morning photography that could be done from right outside your hotel. Local hiking trails offered access to other scenic views of the mountain range along the Bow River.
A friend and I visited Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, and Jasper National Parks on this trip. Banff NP, with more than 25 peaks over 9800 ft was my favorite with regard to scenery. I loved its snow-capped mountains and beautiful lakes such as the elongated, turquoise colored Peyto Lake. Like many lakes and rivers, its color is attributable to an influx of the fine particles of glacial flour. Near Lake Minnewanka, my friend spotted our first black bear. Unfortunately, like the one we saw later in Jasper, it stayed just inside the protection of the forest making photographing it impossible. Lake Louise was impressive but the crowds and heavily overcast sky made the experience less enjoyable. In one photo, I featured a person sitting alone by the lake implying he was enjoying the solitude of the wilderness. If you were there and looked behind him at the crowds of people, you might doubt he found the location is as peaceful as the image suggests. I preferred nearby Lake Moraine where a path leads you to a high overview of the lake and large boulders could be used as the foreground of your photos.
Horse with aspen in fall
One day we took the 48 km long Bow Valley Parkway which paralleled the Trans Canada Highway leading from of the town of Banff. We took photos of the golden aspen along the way and Steller’s jays in a garden at an inn just before the Parkway ended. We also checked out Mount Norquay where a small group of bighorn sheep grazed and where we could photograph the Vermillion Lakes below with fall color. (Also shot the lakes from below. Beautiful reflections). We stayed at the Lake Louise Inn and then Saskatchewan Crossing on our way to Jasper to give us more time to explore the areas. (Note: The Crossing hotel (the only hotel in this area) closes early Oct. The Icefield Parkway heading to Jasper is not maintained once winter comes. Significant snows can begin as early as the beginning of October and sometimes before that date. Snow is possible in any month. The road from Edmonton through Jasper is maintained and open year-round since it is a major route for trucks moving cross country. Flying into Edmonton may be a better choice for visits to Jasper in October.
Ground Squirrel staring at me hoping for food.
In Kootenay NP, the Marble Canyon was a worthwhile stop with water running through a deep crevice. But the best part was the friendly squirrels who played hide-and-seek beneath the cars in the parking lot. In Yoho NP, we checked out the tall Takakkaw Falls reached from the main highway by a road that climbs to the falls parking lot with extreme switchbacks. The flow of the falls was slow and photos uninteresting, so we retreated to a bridge down-stream of the falls for some interesting slow motion photography. (There is always an alternative photo opportunity if you look hard enough.)
Jasper offered the best opportunities for wildlife photography with salt licks that attracted goats and bighorn sheep and open areas where elk grazed. The mountains were not as snow covered as those in Banff but were still beautiful. They were spaced farther apart than those along the Tans Canada Highway and Icefields Parkway allowing light to strike meadows and lakes earlier and later in the day. Therefore, the geography made it easier to spot wildlife while in good light. (Note: Due to the northern location of the parks, the sun was never directly overhead even at noon. Therefore the light was softer and at a lower angle to better accent the topography and illuminate the wildlife.) In September, it was rutting season for the elk with the males gathering their females and bugling. (Love the sound). In terms of small animals, some Columbian ground squirrels, red squirrels, and chipmunks were still above ground busily eating and gathering food for the winter.
It rained and often poured constantly for two days mid-way through the trip. This was a good time for a little scouting and working on images but not for photography. The situation was a bit disappointing until we woke on the morning of the third day and saw that the rain had stopped and fresh snow covered the surrounding mountain peaks. What was perceived as a negative event initially, offered us great opportunities to photograph locally and as we moved north. Even the waterfalls benefited from the fresh supply of water and were more photogenic. The change in color of the aspen leaves from green to gold even seemed accelerated. (The leaf color seemed to peak during the 2nd half our trip, particularly on the southern part of our journey back to Calgary to catch our flight home.)
NOTE: In late Sep and early Oct, crowds thin out, animals are more visible, and snow coats the mountain peaks. However, the chance of bad weather increases, possibly hindering travel.
Sunrise near Canmore Alberta Canada
by Osprey Photo Workshops & Tours | May 7, 2015 | Photo classes, Photo Clubs, Photo Tours, Photo Workshops
I received several nice comments and notes such as the following after serving as a judge for the NBCC photo competition May 6, 2015. “You undertook a long drive and a tough subject, and came through in spectacular fashion!” Such complements are always appreciated. I have both presented and judged competition previously for the club. This time, as before, I was impressed with the talent and creativity of the members. Although the topic, “it’s raining” is pretty far off my wildlife/nature photography radar, I really enjoyed reviewing the images. It is always a pleasure seeing how photographers vary approaching the same topic. As do the images from my students, seeing these photographs also expanded my vision. If you have an open mind, there is I always something new to learn. I may even borrow the topic “it’s raining” as part of an assignment for my Creative Photography workshops. My hat is off to the competition winners. http://www.nbccmd.org
